2013 - L'Eglise-Clinet, Pomerol

Unquestionably one of the better wines of the vintage, with grip and grace. Not the depth and complexity of a normal L'Eglise Clinet, but there is a slow progression through the palate, and a clear indication of careful extraction of actual fruit. Blackberry and raspberry dominate, autumnal and gentle, enjoyable and there is pleasure to be found. No need to wait, but no rush to drink. Denis Durantou was no doubt up for the challenge of this year, obsessively checking his vines to see what he could do to revive them, and I have a wonderful memory of tasting this with him and Michel Rolland in Pomerol, and being struck by how much it revealed of his talents.

Medium garnet in color, the 2013 L'Eglise-Clinet is quite closed to begin, little by little offering notes of wild thyme, redcurrant jelly, and dried cranberries, with a core of prunes and tilled soil plus a hint of truffles. The medium-bodied palate is firm, chewy, and muscular, with savory layers and a rugged finish.

The 2013 L'Eglise-Clinet has a clean and precise bouquet with black fruit, sous-bois, shavings of black truffle and hints of morels. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins on the entry, red fruit laced with mocha and delicate acidity with a harmonious, if simplistic (for this estate) finish. Fine.